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Day 4 started off with a heart to heart girl talk until my friend had to leave for the last minute shopping before catching her flight back home. I took my marry time to get myself ready and checked out around quarter to noon.

All by myself in Tokyo, I headed to Daikanyama and had two onigiri (riceball) at Onigiri den den for brunch – one stuffed with grilled shiozake (salted salmon) and the other made with melted cheese and sesame seeds. Ever since I was a little girl, I was obsessed with onigiri. It always appeared on Japanese animation or comic books with characters eating triangular riceballs in a delighted manner. Now I can confidently say that I can make my own, but it was an absolute delight to try something so homey at a restaurant with equally homey feeling that had 3 tiny tables and bar seating area. Armed with onigiris in my stomach, I marched forward into a small alley of Daikanyama to visit Kurasu. It’s a tiny little store in the back of a shabby looking house selling traditional Japanese and modern houseware. As expected, it was a joy just looking around and imagining all sorts of dishes I can present on those ceramics. Torn between so many options in front of my eyes with limited luggage space, I purchased a couple of items and decided to pay a visit to d&department, another houseware store. However, as soon as I walked out of the store, it was sprinkling outside, and in an effort to keep myself dry from the shower, I went into Bombay Bazar. It’s a café/restaurant that seem to specialize in curry (Japanese LOVE curry). However, since I wasn’t ready for yet another meal (I did end up getting 2nd lunch later though), I ordered a Indian coffee, which was milky coffee spiked with ginger flavor; quite similar to spiced chai latte. It was rather perfect choice, since I was suffering from soar throat from unexpected cold weather in Tokyo.

おにぎり田田 (Onigiri den den):
23-1 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku

暮らす (Kurasu):
20-13 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku

Bombay Bazar:
20-11 Sarugaku-cho (BF1), Shibuya

Anyway, back to d&department… It’s located in a suburban neighborhood of Tokyo called Kuhonbutsu (九品仏). I took JR line from Daikanyama and transferred at Jiyugaoka station to Tokyu line. Frankly, it’s not so far away from central Tokyo, but the tiny outdoor station and a short strip of main shopping area with family owned businesses made me feel as if I was on a day trip! D&department is about 15 min walk from the station and is located in a space which used to be a printing factory. 2nd floor is now used as a store selling furniture (mainly in a mid century modern style) and housewares ranging from traditional Japanese to modern. I picked up a couple of small dishes and a tiny ceramic grater that I can use to grate wasabi root and daikon radish! Since I was quite impressed with the cookbook published by d&department café team that the store was selling, I went to the first floor to try out their creation. They have a wide variety of desserts for tea, but I prefer savory dishes to sweet ones, so I picked dry curry set. YES! It was my 2nd lunch of the day. Just like other dishes I encountered in Tokyo, it was simple and homey, but prepared with care and fresh ingredients! Even the salad that came with the meal was full of fresh flavor of vegetable. Only regret? I forgot to pick up the cookbook before leaving the place and I wasn’t able to find it in any other bookshops. Oh well… Good reason to return to Tokyo… After a brief exploration of the neighborhood to celebrate cherry blossoms and calmness of the residential streets of Kuhonbutsu, I headed to Omotesando and ended my 4th day with a dinner at modern izayaka called Maru.  No photos from Maru though, since I get rather shy when it comes to taking photos at a nicer restaurants… 😉

8-3-2 Okusawa, Setagaya-ku

まる (Maru):
Aoyama KT Building B1F, 5-50-8 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku


The main purpose of my trip to Tokyo was my dear friend’s wedding.  When I received an email from her notifying the wedding location and time, I was more than excited, since I knew it meant a wedding during the cherry blossom season.  It just can’t get any whimsical and beautiful than that!

Anyway, the day started with a cup of coffee from Motoya (as the name suggests, it’s a tiny mini van selling coffee) near Omotesando Hills.  In Japan, there are so many cute cafes but they seem to open rather late around 11AM.  So Motoya becomes my go-to morning coffee place during my trip, since it opens at 8AM on weekdays (plus, I refused to get coffee from Starbucks while I was in Tokyo).

After a strong paper cup full of coffee, we proceeded with shopping at Omotesando Hills.  Omotesando Hills is a shopping mall with many interesting shops, but since I was still in my browsing mode, I ended up not getting anything – although, the story changes dramatically as the trip approaches its final days.  After a couple of hours of skimming through shops, we chose Yasai Mei (located on the 3F of Omotesando Hills) for a lunch spot.  We liked the fact that fresh vegetables were used for the window display and the queue outside the entrance.  The wait wasn’t too long and it gave us a chance to peek into the restaurant and see what others were ordering.  As soon as we set down, we were handed with a Japanese menu and was told that they didn’t have an English menu.  Nonetheless, we were able to ask the waitress to bring us the raw vegetable arrangement, which seemed to be the most popular item!  It was a simple platter of raw root vegetable and some leaves served on a bed of ice accompanied with cream/anchovy dipping sauce.  Sounds simple, but the taste and texture of fresh vegetable were absolutely amazing and the sauce had such a depth!  It was definitely not a boring vegetarian dish.  For my main course, I ordered roasted vegetable curry, which was served as a plate of rice topped with beautifully arranged oven roasted vegetable and a gravy bowl of curry with fried yuba (tofu skin) floating around.  The spiciness from the curry and the sweetness of the vegetable complemented each other so nicely.

Yasaiya Mei (やさい家めい): Omotesando Hills 3F, 4-12-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

When we arrived at the hotel, it was around 2:30, which meant one and only thing: a short disco nap before heading to the wedding!  Thought I’d sleep for 30 mins, but when I woke up, I only had 30 mins to get ready and be at the wedding!!!!  We scrambled and blamed my jetlag!  Never gotten ready for a wedding so fast in my life, but miraculously, we were able to get there and see my friend getting wedded!  It was a small but a beautiful one.  Throughout the ceremony, I was able to see how much my friend and her new hubby are in love!  And thanks to both of them, we were served with wonderful food and an after party at an izakaya (Japanese Pub) in Ginza.

Thought the day was perfect, and it couldn’t get any better, but Tokyo didn’t stop surprising me there.  When I was about to head back to the hotel, I saw the very first glimpse of cherry blossoms glittering the dark night sky…  Like I said earlier, can’t get any more whimsical or beautiful than this…

When it was 30 mins to landing, I opened the shade of my window.  We were somewhere above Hokkaido and I saw powder sugar dusted field.  I was back in Japan in exactly two years…

Despite the blue sky in the air, it was lightly drizzling in Tokyo.  But that didn’t matter at all.  As soon as I arrived at my hotel in Shibuya, I had a key to a corner room (due to overbooking, hotel upgraded my room), and after 15 mins of “Lost in Translation” moment of admiring view outside the window, we were ready for shopping!

Day 2 started with a quick run to a store of my kind called Cookcoop – a tiny cookbook store tucked in a back alley of Shibuya, and a hearty bowl of ramen noodle.  From the facade, it almost looks like a cute cafe.  However, inside is clean yet extremely humble that offers two different kinds of homemade noodle, one with a thickness of spaghetti and the other reminding me of parpardelle.  I ordered miso tsukemen (noodle and broth are served separately) topped with crunchy sauteed vegetable, which had a hint of spiciness.  At first I was overwhelmed by the mound of food, but finishing up was not so problematic.  In order to help digesting, we continued with our shopping spree and a trip to Ueno…

Cookcoop: 1-11-1 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku

Chuka-soba Suzuran (中華そば すずらん): 33-7-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku

Since receiving a wedding invitation last September, I knew where I was going for my summer vacation. Wedding was in Rome, but my boyfriend suggested we should watch Aida at Arena di Verona and spend relaxing time in Amalfi. Who can say no to that?


But to reach the relaxing point of my journey, I had to persevere 20 hour travel time (my flight from JFK was delayed 6 hours; hence, missed my connection flight in London) and a rained out opera (20 mins into the second act, it started to pour down and the show was over!). Felt defeated and exhausted, but when I walked outside my hotel room and faced with the view of Amalfi, I knew I was “in-the-money!”

amalfi 1

Took a long bath and I tucked myself comfortably in bed for a much needed nap. Evening came, so we strolled down to the main piazza, snooped around a little and sat down at the table of a restaurant called “Taverna degli Apostoli”. As soon as Luigi, our charming waiter, brought us the menu, we knew we were in good hands. The handwritten menu was full of mouthwatering Mediterranean dishes with a sketch of Amalfi coast adorning the cover! So casual and welcoming… We ordered a bottle of white wine and started with tomato bruschetta and house salad. They were delicious and didn’t need much seasoning or dressing, since the produces were so tasty! For the main course, I ordered baked sea bass with lemon and my boyfriend had homemade fennel sausage with melted cheese. Both were done in a rustic manner yet delectable. At the end of the meal, we were stuffed, so we sipped on a glass of limoncello to punctuate the deal in Amalfi style.